There are few places on earth as magical as the Hebridean island of Isaly. For a whisky drinker this place is like the source. A small island exposed to the North Atlantic featuring picturesque white stone cottage villages along the length of its coastline and just happens to be home too some of the worlds greatest distilleries. Islay is a pilgrimage that every whisky fan should make and this is a guide to what I think is the best that the island has to offer.
Whilst all of Islay's seven distilleries are worth visiting in their own right; what I'm interested in is tasting whisky straight out of the wood. Here i'll list the best tours and the best offers as well as other useful hints and tips.
The reason I've split this into two parts is that Bruichladdich, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are must visits for anyone making the trip to Islay. The distilleries are fantastic, the quality is great,and they are on frequent bus routes (or as frequent as buses get on Islay). However, for a number of reasons the remaining distilleries are more optional.
As a side note a bus ride on the Port Ellen route is a great experience as the bus driver seemingly knows every inch of tarmac and the exact speed that he can take ever bend. It's reminiscent of those people who drive the Nurberg Ring or the Manx TT on the Isle of Man; expect he drives a multi-tonne bus laden with tourists.
Bunnahabhain: The Mouth of the River distillery is a must visit in terms of quality of the casks and fascination. It is a distillery like no other on Islay from the winding path of the mountain pass and down to the shore, too what awaits you when you finally get there which is reminiscent of a ghost town of the kind in movies where the inhabitants mysteriously evacuated 20 years previously. Whilst the difficulty and expense of getting to Bunnahabhain makes it an optional choice in this guide; if you have a designated driver then it is a must.
The Warehouse 9 Tasting runs in the morning at 11:30, but also at 14:00, which gives you the opportunity to leave Laphroaig at 12:30 and get the 13:15 bus from Port Ellen to Bowmore. From Bowmore however you'll need to get a taxi to the far North East corner of the Island. The Warehouse 9 tasting costs £25 and involves tasting from three casks. You'll also get the opportunity to bottle yourself and purchase 200ml of your favourite cask. I chose to bottle a 14 yr Old Pédro Ximinez cask in 2016 which cost £35.
Ardbeg: If you don't want to go to the hassle and expense of making your way to Bunnahabhain then the other distillery that offers a Warehouse tasting is Ardbeg. Much easier to make it too from Laphroaig, it's just two miles down the road and the last stop on the Port Ellen bus route. I have only been on the now defunct Wood & Whisky in Warehouse 3 tasting at 12:15, but too head there after the Laphroaig tasting you'll need to book the Deconstructing the Dram tasting at £40. For 2017 this has been rebranded as the ARDBIG TOUR & TASTING @ TWO. This is something that I may we'll go on in 2017 as it includes the Warehouse 3 tasting. The drawback in 2016 was that this only took place on a Friday.
The Wood & Whisky tasting was in many ways a disappointment. It's expensive at £30 and the whisky arrived in glass bottles previously drawn from the wood. This was pretty outrageous as everywhere else the whisky was drawn from the casks in front of use using a valinch; and in the case of Lagavulin we got to do it ourselves. The whisky at Ardbeg was paired with suitable delicacies created in the Old Kiln Cafe and of course the whisky was tremendous (if rather young in comparison to Lagavulin and the 27 yr Old cask at Bruichladdich. Of course there is something magical about Ardbeg which meant that despite the cost and the disappointments; it was worthwhile.
There was also the opportunity to sample from the special super large 5 litre bottles of Ardbeg special editions from the last few years; including Alligator, Ardbog, Auriverdes, and the original Super Nova. This alone might be enough to tempt die hard Ardbeg fans. Ardbeg is one of the most tourist friendly distilleries too. The gleaming white out buildings look pristine, the main gate features a sign post with sign posts areas that Ardbeg fans with be familiar with (including Super Nova); there is an old still proudly on display, which of course a great photo opportunity, as well as having a cafe in the Old Kiln.
Caol Ila: Being a Diageo distillery, Caol Ila is free to tour if you are a Friend of Classic Malts; as well as getting a few pounds discount on tastings. A free tour is certainly worth it for the Glencairn glass; although to sample the 18 yr Old, Unpeated Edition, and Feis Ila bottlings you need to book on the tasting. Just North of Port Aiskaig, the Port of the East Coast of Islay, Caol Ila is on a bus route; although it is infrequent. Unfortunately there is no option to taste from the cask; as such I have only been on the tour, collected my free glass and got my stamp in my Friends of Classic Malts passport prior to heading a few miles up the coast to Bunnahabhain.
Bowmore: Of course all bus routes lead to Bowmore, the islands capital, and as such it is the most accessible of all the distilleries. However I have chosen so far to not visit as it's only the Master Distillers Tour at £225 which appeals. I have bought a number of Bowmore bottling'a over the years such as The Devil's Cask, Tempest, Laimrig, and most recently the Vault Edition; but it isn't my favourite Islay distillery and as such have stayed away.
Kilchoman: saving the newest for last, Kilchoman was opened for business in 2005 and has developed a pretty devoted fan base. The tours and tastings have changed for 2017 however, but the distillery tour is still free for card carrying members of the Kilchoman Club (sign up online) and throughout the day you can get a tasting of the basic range (Machir Bay, 100% Islay, and Loch Gorm) for a fiver, or three current special editions (hopefully including the Feis Ila bottling) for a tenner. Without a designated driver, visiting Kilchoman will require a taxi from Bruichladdich (the closest area with a taxi service) but is tourist friendly and again with a cafe.
If you're planning a visit then I hope that this guide has been informative, and if not already planning a visit then I hope that this has inspired you to do so. Islay is a place that everyone with a passion for whisky should visit.
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